of palaces and cathedrals

Yesterday we boarded the local train to visit the pleasure palace at Versailles. We arrived before the gates opened and were quick in the door and through security to tour the chateau, built by Louis XIV, the Sun King. And what a palace and country playground it is! Since we arrived early, we were able to have a leisurely stroll through the chateau before the hordes descended and enjoyed seeing where the kings and queens entertained and held court. Then we headed to the gardens. The grounds are massive, and on summer Saturdays the fountains shoot off at scheduled times. Since Venice was a bit far to visit for a weekend in the 17th century, Louis built and grand canal atVersailles, He also threw in some Roman ruins in the gardens and statues dotting the landscape.

To cover as much ground as possible, we rented bikes and rode around the grounds. A large chunk of the park is open to the local area without requiring tickets, and the locals seem to make great use of the grounds for jogging and biking. Imagine being able to use that as your runningtrack! We enjoyed exploring the alleys of tall trees and occasional fountains and watching the rowboats on the canals. There were also golf carts available for rental. We didn't try them out, but after hiking out to the Grand and Petit Trianon (Marie Antoinette's country "cottage") I could make a case for saving one's feet and riding in style. Isn't that what Marie Antoinette would do if she were still here?

After a bite to eat, we finished our tour of the gardens, including one impressive fountain that was coordinated with classical music. Very charming. Music also played as we walked the main avenue through the garden form the chateau. So regal.

Throughly exhausted, we headed back into town for a rest before heading out for dinner at a local cafe, Cafe Constant, a small local place. The girls had a nice steak, and I had a grilled sea bass. An elderly French woman sat at the table next to ours, sharing the banquette with her Yorkie and Julia. The dog made quick friends with Julia. I wish I could have understood more of what the woman was saying, but I did a lot of nodding and smiling. After dessert of profiteroles and floating islands, we walked to the nearby Eiffel Tower to check out the lines to climb (toolong!) and headed home to get to bed at a somewhat reasonable hour. Vacation is tiring!

Today was another gorgeous day, as they have all been here. We were out relatively early to get in line to climb the Notre Dame Tower when it opened. We did see Quasimodo, although it was at the cafe across the street and not in the tower. I guess he needed his cafe au lait, too. We climbed the 400 steps to the bell tower for some gorgeous views of the city and an up close and personal look at the gargoyles that grace the church and a big bell.Then it was back down 40 steps and into church where mass was starting. We stuck to the side aisles and apse but enjoyed the singing (beautiful choir and cantors) before making our way out of the dimly lit church into the sunlit plaza.

We explored the Ile St. Louis - great little shops - on our way to a small lunch spot for more steak (Julia loves it here!), beef bourgingnon and salad (and a call from Dennis atop a fjord in Gerigen, Norway!) and a walk to the Carnevelet museum. We wanted to see the exhibit on the Revolution, but it was closed today. We remain sadly uneducated on Parisian history. I guess we have something to come back for! Then we made the walk to the Pompidou Museum, always refreshing after seeing so much old art. We saw what we could before our tired feet and selves decided we were done and ready for a rest. We hit the Metro and made our way back home. The Metro is a great system,and quite nicely laid out and clearly marked, but I swear we practically walked to Notre Dame this morning and halfway home today. The big transfer stations take you blocks and blocks underground as you switch trains. But it does work! Our tickets had become demagnetized somehow, but the information guy at the station was able to replace them for us so no harm no foul.

Now we are relaxing in our apartment and should make dinner soon. We need to use up the rest of our pasta and salad fixings! Then we may see how those Eiffel Tower lines are. Emma is ready for more stairs! Tomorrow is the Louvre and Orangerie and whatever else we can fit in. I think we'll do a night bike tour that includes a bateau mouches ride. We can sleep on the plane, right?